PLANET knitting

I'd heard of using a rectangle to begin a toe up sock but had never seen a pattern, so I came up with my own method. It uses a set of 4 dpns, but could easily be adapted to 5 dpn's if needed.
Knit a rectangle 8 sts wide and 6 rows long (stocking stitch)

1. With ndl 1 k8 (along the 'working' edge of the rectangle),
2. with ndl 2 pickup 4 sts along side of rectangle (ends of the six rows) and 4 more sts from other end (halfway across the cast on edge), on 3rd ndl pick up 4 sts from other end (other half of the cast on edge) and 4 more sts from other side (other end of the 6 rows) - you'll have 8 + 8 + 8 = 24 stitches in total
3. Knit one round even
4Move first 2 sts from ndl 2 and last 2 sts from ndl 3 to your first ndl. You'll have 12 on first ndl and 6 on each of the other ndls (with the picked up sts)
5. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k10 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k5, on ndl 3 k5 m1 k1
6. Work one round even
7. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k12 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k6, on ndl 3 k6 m1 k1
8. Work one round even
9. Continue increasing in this manner til you have the number of sts you need for the foot of the sock

You could change the frequency of the increase rounds, the number of sts picked up, and / or the size of the rectangle if you like.

From Barbara Breiter,

Getting Started

Before you begin, you'll need to go shopping. All you'll need is yarn and knitting needles. Visit a yarn shop, where there will be experts on staff to help you in your selection.

Yarn is available in many fibers and weights (from very thin to very thick). Select a worsted weight yarn (a medium weight) spun from wool. Wool is the most elastic fiber and very forgiving. You'll find it much easier to knit with than a fancy yarn with a lot of loops and eyelashes, which make it difficult to see what you're doing.

Needles are made from a variety of materials. What you select is a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong. Aluminum needles are heavy and slippery; some yarns "stick" on needles and you might find aluminum needles easier to knit with for these type of yarns. Bamboo needles are light and warm to the touch. Bamboo tends to grip the yarn so you'll be less likely to have problems with your stitches falling off the needles. They come in a variety of sizes that are used with various thicknesses of yarns. Select a size 8 US (5 MM, 6 UK) needle for practice.

Pick a time when you can be alone and concentrate. A chair with no arms (or very low arms) and a good light are essential.

So you've decided you'd like to learn to knit? Those of us who enjoy the art of knitting find it soothing and relaxing to the body and spirit. But learning how to knit takes some effort. How should one go about it?

There are several methods to choose from. I learned by taking books out from the library and following the illustrations. It felt awkward at first, but soon I was knitting and purling without even looking. You might also choose to take lessons from someone; seek out your local yarn shop. If they don't offer classes, they can point you in the direction of someone who does. There are also a wide selection of videos available to help you on your journey as well as lessons on the net.

There are two different methods of making stitches: Continental and American. Which method you choose doesn't matter; the stitches are exactly the same. Experiment and find which you are most comfortable with.

I would suggest using wool for your lessons and medium sized needles--about a size 7 works well. Wool is forgiving and "bounces back", making it easier for you to get an even tension. Larger or smaller needles can be especially awkward to beginners to work with.

Sit in a comfortable chair, one in which the arms are not too high so as to interfere with the needles as you work. Have good lighting available. Most of all RELAX--tensing up with only take away from the experience and knitting will become a chore instead of a soothing way to spend some time.

Knitting instructions

Jo Chandler

Materials:

Make One (M1)

There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.

Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.

Materials:

Something fine and fluffy. Something which will look pretty and lacy in a garter stitch fabric. Needles should be big enough to give an open work look.

I used size 8 US with Hayfield "Beverly Hills" which is a light boucle blend of mohair/wool/nylon and acrylic. It took 3 balls totalling up to 540 yards.

If you've only knit with wool, the first time you pick up a skein of cotton and start to knit you may feel like you've begun to learn a new art form. Indeed you have, for knitting with cotton is a unique experience.

Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.

Gauge:
6 st/in; 8 rows/in

I admit it: I'm a yarn snob. I make no bones about it; I don't like acrylic yarn and I never will. For all of you acrylic lovers out there, please remember this is only my opinion and flaming isn't nice.

Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.

It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.

Grace Mrowicki

Materials:

Should I use circular needles instead of straight needles? Actually, it's a personal preference. Sue prefers the circular needles for several reasons: they're more versatile, you can use them to knit both in the round or back and forth like a straight needle, and they're more comfortable to use. They also have less of a tendency to tire out your shoulders as your fabric grows.

What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.

If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.

Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.

Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.

What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.

For instance:

Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.

Knitting instructions for all

Designed by Barbara Breiter

by: MelusiMaseko

A handcrafted gift is one which can be passed down through generations and appreciated by everyone. It shows the receiver that you spent a lot of time and effort to make just the right gift for them. And, because of the time you have invested in the gift, it will be one of the best received.

When making a blanket for a baby, here are some points to consider

As we all know, we don't knit to create a sweater cheaper than we can buy one; knitting one sweater can cost a small fortune! Many thanks to all the readers who have sent in these wonderful ideas on how to knit more for less money.

Let me know if you have any cheap knitting tips and I'll list them in a future article.

Barbara Breiter

Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).

Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).

• A very small tackle box makes a great container for holding knitting gadgets. They come with many compartments and open on two sides. Find them at your local K-Mart, Target or other store for under $10.
• Have a simple project going, such as a sweater with a fancy yarn in stockinette stitch, for traveling. No pattern repeats to worry about...just knit away.
• Copy and enlarge any project pattern or stitch pattern you are using. Makes it a lot easier to see and follow. This is especially true of charts.
• A lovely wicker hamper sits next to my knitting chair and holds needles, my tackle box of gadgets, yarn for the current project.
• The hamper doubles as a table on which I prop my directions/stitch patterns. I use a magnetized board on a stand that allows you to see the directions much easier than if they were lying flat.
• Make note of which row in the pattern you began binding off stitches for the armhole. Then when you knit the other side, you'll be sure to bind off on the exact same row...not just at about 14".
• Pry the plastic bottom off of a liter soda bottle. It's tough but keep at it. It makes a great yarn holder to use as you're knitting, keeping the yarn clean and tangle free.

Barbara Breiter

After spending untold hours laboring over knitting a sweater, you'd like it to look as good after ten washings as the day you finished it. Here's how I care for my hand knits.

Filling the basin with tepid water, I use a teaspoon or so of shampoo to wash the sweater with. I've always thought that if shampoo was made to eradicate oils and yet be mild, it was the perfect product for washing sweaters. Let the sweater soak for fifteen minutes at least. I "agitate" the sweater with my hands for a bit.

Drain the water and press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess dirty water. Rinse with more tepid water as many times as it takes until the water is clear. I add a small amount of liquid softener as this point, particularly with cottons; without the softener, I find cotton stiffens up considerably after drying unless it's a fine Egyptian cotton.

Again press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess water. Lay a towel out flat and place the sweater out on the towel. Roll the towel up with the sweater inside. This removes a great deal of water from the knit.

I always use a screen type sweater dryer, available from many mail order catalogues. I have never measured out the sweater, made cut outs of the sweater on butcher paper prior to washing, or any other such time consuming steps I've seen written about. Frankly, I've never had a problem with the sweater not returning to its original shape. After laying it on the screen, I just gently shape it and try to "push in" the ribbing, particularly with cottons. Cotton ribbing will eventually spread out and I've not thought of a way to avoid this; I always end up using elastic thread in a color to match the yarn and it works great.

Common sense will tell you to never hang a sweater, not even on padded hangers. To fold so that there are a minimum number of creases, I first lay the sweater flat. I then fold in the arms. Then, on the horizontal, fold the left third and the right third until they meet in the middle. Finally, fold in half vertically.

Knitting instructions

by Barbara Breiter

Ahh, the excitement of starting a new project...but wait, the dreaded gauge swatch looms before you. You're so tempted to begin by just using the recommended needle size (what difference could a teeny half stitch per inch make anyway?). But don't skip this step; you WILL be sorry.

That teeny half stitch per inch ends up making a huge difference to the overall size of a sweater. For example, suppose you are knitting a size 40 sweater with a gauge of 4st=1". If you knit the entire sweater at a gauge of 4' st=1", you will in the end have produced a sweater that measures 35'" instead of 40"! Now will you check your gauge before you begin?

Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch that you plan to use. Some patterns pull in while others are loose and lacy. If you knit the swatch in stockinette (knit one row and purl the next), chances are the gauge will not be correct. Always knit your gauge swatch over the indicated pattern stitch.

I know you want to get through this, but don't skimp on the size of the swatch either. It must be big enough to give you a realistic measure of the gauge. Some pattern stitches won't begin to pull in or out until you've knit for a few inches. Aim for at least 4" x 4".

Surround the swatch with a few rows of seed stitch (knit or purl the opposite stitch of what you see facing you on odd number rows). Begin and end each row with four seed stitches as well. This stitch lies very flat and will help you measure accurately.

Please don't worry about the needle size you end up using. That's why you are making a swatch. If you could simply use the recommended needle size that came with the pattern, you wouldn't have to make a swatch! Some people knit loosely while others pull and tug; this can even vary from hour to hour with people so don't sweat the needle size!

If you are designing your own sweater, you can choose the gauge you like best and design the sweater around the gauge you have achieved. Are you aiming for a very tight, wind proof weave or a light and airy feel? The tighter weave may feel stiffer while the more loosely knit piece may feel softer. These factors should be taken into consideration when making your choice of gauge.

Finally, bind off the swatch and let it sit for some time. The yarn has been traumatized and needs awhile to relax and settle in. Use a pliable plastic or cloth tape measure and carefully measure the stitches and rows per inch. Measure in several different places. You can also calculate how large the total swatch should be and double check the gauge that way: If 20 stitches were cast on for the pattern and the gauge is 4"=1" the swatch should measure 5" (don't measure the seed stitch pattern on each end). If it's too large, try needles a size smaller; if it's too small, try again with larger needles.

There, all finished! That wasn't so bad. Now the sweater will fit and you won't have to give it to the kid next door.

I have new design on my blog.

Do you like it?

by Barbara Breiter

If you are among the thousands of people learning to knit, chances are you have a lot of questions. Don't despair...and please don't feel "silly" or "stupid". Tons of beginning knitters have the same exact question! Here are the answers to Frequently Asked Questions by new knitters.

What is stockinette stitch?
When you knit one row and purl the next and continue alternating between knit and purl rows, one side of the fabric is smooth and the other side "bumpy". The smooth side is stockinette. It is sometimes called stocking stitch. It means the same thing.

What is reverse stockinette stitch?
The bumpy side of stockinette.